The new exhibition "When Aristocrats Created Fashion" is opening at the Museum of Applied Arts and Design (Arsenalo St. 3A, Vilnius). 2021th-21st centuries", in which the collector Aleksandras Vasilijevas presents to the Lithuanian public three centuries of fashion, during which the aristocracy formed the concept of fashion and influenced the development of fashion. The exhibition will be open until XNUMX. January XNUMX
The first part of the exhibition is devoted to the era of absolutism, established in France in the XNUMXth century, and the Rococo style, inseparable from the culture of the royal court and satisfying the personal needs of the first lady of the court, the Marquise de Pompadur, a favorite of Louis XV. Visitors will see how the Rococo style manifested itself in the fashion trends of that time, how the fabrics, cut of dresses, color combinations, fans and other accessories - snuff boxes, fly boxes, miniatures, etc. changed. - form.
Queen Marie Antoinette from the Habsburg family, wife of Louis XVI, became another French fashion goddess. She was an extravagant woman, an inspiration for changes in clothing. It was she who introduced the fashion for Greek, American, and English cuts, as well as polonaise style dresses. A distinguishing feature of that period is sophisticated hairstyles in the style of Marie Antoinette, reaching up to one meter in height.
The exhibition also presents the era of Napoleon's reign, one of the most important periods when the aristocracy had a particularly strong impact on the world of fashion. Josephine, the wife of self-proclaimed French emperor Napoleon I, was from the Caribbean island of Martinique, and had an interest in and enjoyment of fashion. Her tastes and needs were shaped by the old traditions of Versailles. Josephine adored parties and white see-through dresses that accentuated her slender figure. The Empire style, which was formed during Napoleon's reign and imitated Greek and Roman fashion, is represented in the exhibition by court ladies' muslin dresses, various country clothes, men's embroidered waistcoats, velvet bracelets decorated with cameos, diadems, flat shoes, etc.
After the overthrow of Napoleon, the reign of Queen Victoria began (from 1837 to 1901). He stood out in a rather modest style of clothing. The Queen was very fond of Scotland and her summer residence, Balmoral Castle, whose interior was draped with plaid. It is therefore not surprising that plaid crinoline dresses became popular in the XNUMXth century, catering to Victoria's personal preferences.
During that period, Eugénie, the wife of Emperor Napoleon III, who came from Spain, also dominated the world of fashion in France. It was she who became the client of the first English fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth, who was the goddess of high fashion. Ch. F. Worth's crinoline ball gowns stood out for their voluminous, sophisticated cut, originality and beauty of finishes such as black Shantiji lace.
A special part of the exposition is dedicated to the Russian Empire. Visitors to the exhibition will see how the people of the Romanov estate were decorated. One of the outstanding exhibits is the cloak rotunda of the Brizak fashion house, which belonged to Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, the wife of Nicholas II.
When it comes to the influence of Russian aristocrats on world fashion, one cannot ignore the 1917 consequences of the revolution. Having lost their property and homes during the civil war, members of the Russian nobility were forced to flee the country. In order to establish themselves in the new centers of emigration - Constantinople, Berlin, Prague, Paris, aristocrats began to create fashion there. This is how many fashion houses founded by Russian emigrants appeared in Paris - the embroidery house of Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna Romanova "Kitmir", the fashion house "Irfe" of duchess Irina (Romanova) and Felix Yusupov, the fashion house "TAO" of duchess Maria Trubeckaya, Maria Annenkova and duchess Lyubov Obolenskaya , Duchess Ekaterina Lobanova-Rostovska's fashion house "Paul Caret", Empress Alexandra Feodorovna's maid of honor Baroness Yelizaveta Hoyningen-Huene's fashion house "Yteb" and others. Many examples of clothing from those famous fashion houses are shown in this exhibition for the first time.
Based on the example of Wallis Simpson, one of the recognized fashion goddesses, we will learn the role of the XNUMXth century. English aristocrats played a role in the development of fashion. W. Simpson was very different from the conservative English women, both in her charming demeanor and in her clothing, which displayed a unique style that caused King Edward VII to abdicate. The exhibition features one dress from W. Simpson's wardrobe, as well as dresses worn by English aristocrats when Queen Elizabeth II took the throne.
Part of the exhibition is devoted to the Lithuanian aristocracy, which also played a certain role in creating world fashion. First of all, this is the American sister of Jacqueline Kennedy, Lee Radziwill, who married a prince of a famous Lithuanian family and had become JAV fashion goddess The exhibition features dresses in the style of Lee Radziwill, as well as clothes created in the fashion house of Duchess Irene Galitzine, a direct descendant of the Dukes of Golitsyn, the Russian Gediminats.
Finally, in the exhibition "When aristocrats created fashion. XNUMXth-XNUMXst century" visitors will see clothing samples created by fashion designers from old famous families. These are the Florentine nobleman Emilio Pucci, the American count Oleg Cassini of Russian and Italian origin, the French marquis Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, the marquise Jacqueline de Ribes and others. These unique creations remind us how aristocrats, by selling their name and refined taste, gave a new impetus to world fashion and at the same time gave the opportunity to noble families in the XNUMXth century. in the second half to live with dignity.
